15 September 2014

The Black Pearl of Danube



As you know, I spent a couple of weeks at my friend's flat in the summertime, and although last November's familiar gloom had changed into scorching heat, Budapest felt the same to me. The same air of dripping decay and sense of sleepwalking was still there (I think I mentioned it earlier), and it caught me after a few days. Not sure if I've still fully managed to shake it off.




My impression of Budapest can be seen in a few details. Black cats lurking in the streets, the bygone glory and slow ruin, red wine and velvet pillows, white lace curtains, chipping paint and Bela's piercing glare. Rows of beautiful houses stretching as far as the eye can see, and all those bulletholes in their faces, reminding how history is always near. And you can never know what the streets bring into your sight. Whether it's those unnaturally large spiders dangling in the bridges between Buda and Pest, or even a coffin on the sidewalk!

But I don't think most people perceive the city so grimly, I just seem to look at everything through very dark glasses. Heart-shaped, but dark.




I ran on the street in heavy rain with my nightgown on and listened to a live jam session at a former Soviet slaughterhouse. Had a lovely picnic at the Buda Castle courtyard at 1.am., when there's no other soul to be found, except for the bats circling in the air above. I showered in candle light when the light-switch stopped working and climbed the infinite stairs of St.Istvan's church to get that spiraling photograph. I looted the various second hand shops and markets, filling the suitcase up with old medical bottles, frames and vintage robes. We even went on this incredibly cool caving expedition under Budapest (would have scared any claustrophobe to death!), and I kind of earned the title of tempestarii, because each day I mentioned thunder it seemed to suddenly form and flash the sky blind.

And most of all, I hanged around the city with Laura. Roasting pine seeds in the kitchen in the morning, and having weird conversations with complete strangers in the ruin bars. Indulging in so many glorious veggie dishes that my hedonism chart must have increased by a few numbers! I still didn't visit any thermal spas that the city is famous for, but maybe the city will lure me in again someday.

50 comments:

  1. I missed the posts of the blog... I'm happy that it has returned, and happy that you has fun in your travel ... That city seems to be really beautiful, I hope to know some day ♥

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you for your kindness, I've missed blogging too! I hope you get to see Budapest some day. :)

      Delete
  2. If you happen to still be here, or planning to return, we should totally meet up. The city is beautiful indeed (but I'd prefer it without the people - I guess your nigth picnic idea is so smart), but reading the thoughts of a foreigner is quite instructive.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Sorry to say, but I'm back in Finland for now! I might return to Hungary some day, but before that I wish to visit some other countries for a change. :)

      Delete
  3. I fell in love with your last picture. Impeccable style. Charming lips. And cool new copyright symbol, by the way.
    I missed your crepuscular notes <3

    ReplyDelete
  4. Näyttää ihanalta reissulta. Pääsisipä itsekin jonnekin!
    Oletko muuten kuullut Destiny Storesta? http://www.destinystore.fi/
    Vaikutti aika sinun tyyliseltäsi paikalta. Muutama kuva heidän Habitare osastoltaan löytyy blogistani, jos kiinnostaa.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Ei kun vaan matkalaukkua pakkaamaan! Aikaa saa jotenkin aina raivattua ja pienelläkin budjetilla voi matkustaa, trust me. :)

      Tosi viihtyisän näköinen puoti, pitänee vierailla tuolla jossain välissä. Harvemmin vaan tulee ostettua sisustuskamaa uutena, (pidän enemmän kirppareiden ja roskalavojen penkomisesta sisustuksen suhteen) mutta saattaisi tuolta jotain tarttua mukaan!

      Delete
  5. Oh dear! I totally understand your vission about the city. I visited myself during the Summer, and I toatally enjoyed the pure decadence of it. I think there is a very East-Europe spirit about it, I am currently living in Bucharest at the moment, and they both look quite similar in some aspects: ruined mannor houses and old palaces, comunist buildings and a continuous crash between modern and antique. I think there is something on the countries which used to be rich kindoms and turned into Comunist republics, that you can´t find anywhere else.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Violette, I'm so glad you enjoyed your stay there! And I'm sorry that I responsed your comment too late, you were asking me some tips before your trip? If you ever go there again, I'd be happy to give you some tips if you email me. :)

      I'd love to see Bucharest too, you're lucky to live there. I've only seen photos and heard stories, but the impression of the city sure sounds a lot similar to Budapest. I definitely agree that there's something unique about the Eastern cities of former glory and Communist rule, there's that certain air of beauty and sorrow that's hard to find in other cities.

      Delete
    2. Oh, don´t worry at all. I visited Budapest as a part of a longer road trip, so I finally could not spend more than one night over there. Even so, I took the chance to make a nocturnal cruisse through the Danube and I was impress by the beauty sights. So many monumental buildings to be admired! The experience was great and I totally crave to repeat it, so I will be visiting again at any moment soon. I will go back to you then :)

      In relation to Bucharest, I am truly enjoying the experience right now. It is amazing you can find so many Bohemian experiences in a so chaotic city! Recently, I also visited Transylvannia and enjoyed a lot (Peles Castle in the Carpathian Mountains is to die for! I might be visiting Corvinilor (the crows´ castle) as soon as possible too, as I do love extravagant medieval architecture.
      Anyway, if you decide to come to Romania at any point, just let me know. It will be my pleassure to be a Cicerone. Visiting Bucharest, plus a Carpathian castles route may be an unforgetable life experience. ♥

      Delete
    3. Oh, I've actually been in the Transylvanian night train, twice! (Well, there and back). Still haven't blogged about that though, how rude of me. But Halloween is coming up, what better occasion to blog about such things is there? ;) I'd love to see the Peles Castle and Corvinilor too, a little bird called Google image search told me they are very tempting.

      It would be lovely to meet you in Bucharest so if I come there some day, I'll send you a message!

      Delete
  6. I absolutely love your blog! You're my girl crush <3
    Will you be posting more regularly now in the autumn?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Oh wow, thank you <3
      I sure hope so, I have a lot of inspiration flowing right now and it's a little easier to post, now that I'm no longer moving around. :)

      Delete
  7. You write in such a poetic way and I love it!
    I longed so much for your new post!!!!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you very much Kaline! A little too poetic sometimes, perhaps, but that's how I roll. :D Can't help it!

      Delete
  8. Beautiful photos, your look was wonderful!

    ReplyDelete
  9. Kisu! <3 Kaikista ihanista kuvista sekosin siitä eniten, terkuin crazycatlady. :3

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Kissat on parhaita! Mulla oli enemmänkin kisukuvia mutta vain tuo istui sarjaan, pentu oli hyperaktiivinen ja pysähtyi juuri tuoksi hetkeksi että sain yhden terävän kuvan napattua. Ja täällä toinen crazycatlady, yleensä mulla jää juhlista kameraan vaan kissakuvia. :D Hyvällä lykyllä muistan ottaa pari kuvaa drinkeistä ja ystävistä mutta kissat aina pääosassa. Tai koirat, jos niitäkin ihania on paikalla!

      Delete
  10. Great subjects and composition in your photos! I get to visit this city through your shots and so many feelings - curiosity, longing, warm and cold. And I agree with others, such wonderful writing.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you so much for your kind words! I'm happy if the photos conveyed some of those feelings.

      Delete
  11. I love the lenses you see the world through. I've never been to Budapest but I've always longed to, it seems like a city like no other. I love the way you've captured it. The picture of you in the window is my favourite, you look so at peace.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you, and you should visit the city, I think it's one of the nicest I've ever been to. :)
      The window photo was taken by Laura, and I like the peacefulness in it too.

      Delete
  12. Tuijotin suu auki noita kuvia, kun olivat niin upeita..

    ReplyDelete
  13. Kuullostaa upealta, kerrot niin ihanasti tuosta oman tunnelman omaavasta kaupungista. Tuli hinku lähetä käymään ♡ Olisi siellä kaveri juuri vaihdossakin, niin ei sitä koskaan tiedä..hihi ^__^

    Oi mitä yksityiskohtia ♡ Olisin varmasti ihan haltioissani kaikesta vanhasta ja menneitä aikoja huokuvista paikoista, tosin en kyllä sinne maan alle lähtisi, vaikkei pahemmin ole ahtaanapaikan kammoa, mutta varmasti se iskisi juuri siellä ja saisi kauhean paniikkikohtauksen. x)

    ~ Frillycakes ~

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hei, kannattaa ehdottomasti mennä! Kyllä kaveri ottaa varmaan luokseen asumaan, yhdessä on kiva tehdä tutkimusretkiä kaupunkiin. :) Se luolakierros oli ihan mieeeletön kokemus! Osa kulkuväylistä oli niin ahtaita ettei mun peba meinannut päästä läpi, haha! Siis sellaisia onkaloita joissa joutui laittamaan pään sivusuuntaan ja vetämään itsensä army crawlingilla läpi. Menisin milloin vaan uudestaan, sai kunnon oman elämän Lara Croft-fiilikset! ;)

      Delete
  14. Your text is enchanting and the photos have the perfect cloom. You are an artist in all aspects and you made me fell in love with Budapest without me ever visiting.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks so much for your words Linnea-Maria! <3

      Delete
  15. You always shoot such nice photos :) And you're gorgeous as always. I like the black kitty ^_^

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you Teky! :) The black kitten was too cute for words, it couldn't stop chasing a fly and it's a miracle I could snap even one sharp photo of it.

      Delete
  16. Oh my! a coffin in the middle of the street. I think I need to visit this town. By the way it`s nice to see you posting again :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I think it was a "trash day", when all people throw out their carbage on the curb, some people pick what they want out of the trash and the rest gets removed. There was a lot of clothing and furniture around, but a coffin... even I was speechless. :D We didn't take a peek inside though, haha!

      Delete
  17. Budapest sounds awesome. The perfect gloomy place to escape all summer's gleefullness.
    I love your pictures!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! But I heard it's one of the sunniest cities in Europe, what a contrast. It sure was scorching hot in there for most of the time, but luckily there's a lot of shadows to lurk in. :)

      Delete
  18. The picture of you sitting in a window makes me speechless. ♥ Was it taken in the morning with your cup of coffee, or is there a completely different story behind it? :) Even though I'm not an expert, I noticed that your photo and graphic skills are still improving which makes reading your blog even more exciting! And one more question :P do you take your falsies and other "beauty stuff" with you everywhere, or do you happen to buy/borrow them on the go?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Laura kindly took that photo, and you got the feeling exactly, it was morning and I was having my daily fix of caffeine. :)

      And thank you, I don't see that much improvement in the photo quality (although they look sharper now that I don't upload them in Blogger anymore), but it's nice to hear that! I just wish I could save up for a better camera, mine is ancient and half-broken and I always wonder how I still manage to take any photos with it, haha! But I'll buy a new camera for sure, once I get a job.

      I'm kind of a little parasite when it comes to beauty stuff and travel. I do take my make-up and personal hygiene stuff with me (or buy new ones on the spot, when needed), but I usually leech shampoos, shower gels, toothpaste and hairspray from my loved ones. Of course I ask permission, but I think it's better to loan a little than carry a ton of stuff with you. And when people come to visit me, they can naturally use my beauty products. :)

      Delete
  19. Magnificent post. Hunger King? Hah, clever!
    Love your new watermark as well ♥

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! :>
      The Hunger King was a protest art installation, pretty interesting. I especially liked the soda automat, so I had to squeeze it in with the other photos.

      Delete
  20. Olin joskus äidin kanssa Budapestissä viikon reissulla, käytiin kans siellä kuninkaanlinnan alla olevassa "labyrintissä". Hassua että eivät antaneet mennessä karttaa, me ainaki kierreltiin siellä maan alla kauan ennen ku löydettiin sieltä pois. :D Äiti oli jo pakokauhun partaalla, mut ite olin kauheen innoissaan niistä mielenkiintosista umpikujista ja vankityrmistä! Se yks umpikuja oli tosi siisti, siellä oli semmonen suihkulähde, josta virtas veden sijasta jotain punasta, olisko ollu viiniä. :P Tykkäsin kyllä Budapestistä tosi paljon, ihania museoita ja rakennuksia ja se kauppahalli oli kans kiva. :) Ja se Gellertin kylpylä on mieletön, ihan jättimäinen, ihan oli sellaset fiilikset kuin ois uinu jossain antiikin aikasessa kylpylässä :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Aa, mä en ole käynyt tuolla labyrintissä (en tiennyt sen olemassaolostakaan, kiitos vinkistä!), meidän luolastoreissu sijoittui ihan luonnon muovaamiin luolastoihin Budapestin alla. Kuuma lähdevesi on ne aikojen saatossa kaivertanut ja tutkimusretkille tarvittiin ihan opas ja kunnon suojavarusteet, kun joutui sairaan ahtaista onkaloista ryömimään otsalampun valossa. Oli huiman hieno kokemus!

      Kauppahallissa tai Gellertissä en tälläkään kertaa käynyt, mutta jäipähän jotain seuraavalle matkalle. :)

      Delete
  21. Wau, makeita kuvia, niin ihanaa rappioromantiikkaa. Tuo hauta-arkku jätteiden keskellä on erityisen karu, sekin varmaan kuului siihen installaatioon, josta kerroit jossain aiemmassa kommentissa? :) Budapest vaikuttaa hienolta paikalta, ehkä mäkin eksyn sinne vielä joku päivä! Marraskuussa olisi joka tapauksessa vuorossa Praha jo kolmannen kerran ja se hartaasti odotettu luukirkko! :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Kiitoksia! Arkku ei kuulunut installaatioon, Hunger King oli ihan erillinen teos. Tuo oli vaan puhdasta Budapestia itsessään. :D Kannattaa ehdottomasti eksyä joskus Budapestiin, et varmasti pety.

      Ja ihanaa että pääset näkemään Sedlec Ossuaryn, sitä kannattaakin odottaa! Mulla jäi Prahan reissu silloin hieman lyhyeksi, joten sinne pitää päästä vielä uudestaan tutkimaan paikkaa.

      Delete
  22. Hi Moth,
    You are so perfect <3 You have absolutely perfect body. I have a question - how much you weigh? Greetings from Poland!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I don't know what to say, other than thank you for the wild compliment!
      But I'm curious why people always want to know other people's weight, feels so strange. :) I actually don't know how much I weigh, as I don't own a scale and don't really care about the numbers anyway. But I'd estimate that I can't be under 60kg with the muscles and love for avocados that I have, hehe.

      Delete
  23. I most certainly adore your bangs! Have you done a tutorial before or could you do one? I've been trying to cut mine for ages now but I'm scared to mess them up. I had read in one of your earlier posts that you cut your own hair I wish I was brave enough to do that! Hope you had a safe and terrific trip and I am most certainly glad I found your blog <3

    ReplyDelete
  24. Hi Moth!
    I really want to say that I adore your blog so much. Your looks are so enchanting , you are one of the most beautiful creatures I eve saw and the feeling while reading your beautiful texts is indescribable! I'm always happy to see new posts on here. Thank you so much for giving me great feels :)

    ReplyDelete