The Black Pearl of Danube

As you know, I spent a couple of weeks at my friend's flat in the summertime, and although last November's familiar gloom had changed into scorching heat, Budapest felt the same to me. The same air of dripping decay and sense of sleepwalking was still there (I think I mentioned it earlier), and it caught me after a few days. Not sure if I've still fully managed to shake it off.

My impression of Budapest can be seen in a few details. Black cats lurking in the streets, the bygone glory and slow ruin, red wine and velvet pillows, white lace curtains, chipping paint and Bela's piercing glare. Rows of beautiful houses stretching as far as the eye can see, and all those bulletholes in their faces, reminding how history is always near. And you can never know what the streets bring into your sight. Whether it's those unnaturally large spiders dangling in the bridges between Buda and Pest, or even a coffin on the sidewalk!

But I don't think most people perceive the city so grimly, I just seem to look at everything through very dark glasses. Heart-shaped, but dark.

I ran on the street in heavy rain with my nightgown on and listened to a live jam session at a former Soviet slaughterhouse. Had a lovely picnic at the Buda Castle courtyard at 1.am., when there's no other soul to be found, except for the bats circling in the air above. I showered in candle light when the light-switch stopped working and climbed the infinite stairs of St.Istvan's church to get that spiraling photograph. I looted the various second hand shops and markets, filling the suitcase up with old medical bottles, frames and vintage robes. We even went on this incredibly cool caving expedition under Budapest (would have scared any claustrophobe to death!), and I kind of earned the title of tempestarii, because each day I mentioned thunder it seemed to suddenly form and flash the sky blind.

And most of all, I hanged around the city with Laura. Roasting pine seeds in the kitchen in the morning, and having weird conversations with complete strangers in the ruin bars. Indulging in so many glorious veggie dishes that my hedonism chart must have increased by a few numbers! I still didn't visit any thermal spas that the city is famous for, but maybe the city will lure me in again someday.

Jackie's Strength

A slightly worried friend asked me if I'm still in the books of the living, not having updated my blog in weeks. I had no idea it's been so long! Summer has got its warm fingers clutched on my throat, travelling also mixes up my perception of the flow of time. I just spent over a month living from my suitcase, moving from unfamiliar places to familiar sofas and back home again, experiencing thrilling moments and hectic days.

Life starts to remind a surrealist dream when there's no rhythm nor obligation to hold on to, scary and beautiful at the same time. Do you ever get that feeling? Looking back, all those memories might as well happened in a distant dream, or to someone else. I'm glad I've got folders filled with photos to relive what happened, and share some of that with you later.

But here I am, packing my suitcase again, filling it with hopes and travel gear. I hope you've all been well for the past month! 

(This outfit reminded me of Jackie Kennedy and I've been listening to beloved Tori Amos a lot, hence the title. The dress and hat are vintage from the 60's, the shoes are thrifted Minna Parikka and eyeglasses are my friend's. Loving vintage looks and 60's vibe right now!)

Miles Away

Virtual greetings from Budapest! 

The decayed Pearl of Danube lured me in again, and I couldn't help but come to see my friend and the city. I will linger here for another week but time goes fast, so I just wanted to say a quick hello for now! More pics and stories will follow after my trip, if I don't get a blogging chance sooner.

(PS. Laura said there are never moths in this apartment, but now they've seemed to be gathering here! Me included.)

Buda+Pest

It occurred to me that some travel adventures are still in my sketch files! Haven't shown you stories about Budapest or Transylvania (oh yes) yet, now have I? How wicked of me. Well, I'll continue with some photos and feelings regarding Budapest, a city with two sides. I went there to see my friend Laura, the gorgeous lady in the photo below.

The guard dogs of Budapest. Anubis, times two.

At first impression Budapest felt like a city of sleepwalkers. I can't really explain why, maybe it was due to the grey weather, maybe something deeper. Budapest also had a distinct scent of its own, something I haven't encountered in other cities. 

I was really excited to see the city, entering new places feels like unwrapping a massive present with surprises inside! Turning around new corners, hearing the language that feels somehow familiar but you still can't grasp anything (all I remember is kicsit fekete), visiting a bar in the ruins of an old building, receiving the kindness of strangers in trams and most of all; having adventures with a friend. A constant faint fluttering of happy moths in the stomach.

Bullet holes, a common mural.

Wine, not blood, I swear. ;)

At the antique market, wearing antique glasses. 

It was a real treasure hold, I got the horns, the bracelet and the medical bottle from there.

I wish I could've stuffed that dreamy couch in my pocket too, but there's only so much that hand luggage can contain!

I can't say that I know the city at all based on the scarce days I was there, but I did sense a certain edge. Mostly attached to the core of the city soul, but it was also very visible at some parts. The bullet holes in the faces of old buildings and the decaying mortar told tales of the past, and I really enjoyed the way the city wasn't too clinical. It felt like life feels, a little banged up but still beautiful. I could easily see other gothlings feel cozy there, in the middle of the tarnished buildings and hints of lovely murkiness in the air. And I would be lying if I said I didn't equally enjoy the cheap wine and delicious falafels.

The place called "The road that leads to nowhere".

I hope I get a second adventure with Budapest some day! So much was left unseen.